There it was time again, to meet my wine bro Eugen Lamprecht again for another winetasting. This time we met one of Austria’s Pioneers of the red wine production Gerhard Markowitsch from Göttelsbrunn Carnuntum, which is in the east of Austria and lying in the shadow of the Burgenland and Wachau. To my surprise, The Oxford Companion to Wine and the Johnsons Wine Atlas, my favorite books, do not share the same enthusiasm as me, when it comes to this rather small region, but of course otherwise their books would be even fatter than they are already. Still, this region and the particular producer we are looking into today, are in the Austrian Gastro Scene, as they call it, is a pioneer in the production of fine quality focused red wine production and to my surprise also white wine.
This unknown region lies in the south east of Vienna on the Border to Slovania and it belongs technically to the region of Burgendland, but for political reasons it is a sub region of Niederösterreich and has in total 910 ha of vineyards. This beautiful subregion has a long and mysterious history starting in the Roman Empire, and was an army camp which was first time mentioned at the history books in 6 AD. For all history maniacs here is a very good link for more information http://www.carnuntum.at/park-en?set_language=en . There also was a time that this region was bigger than Vienna and Berlin, unbelievable but true.
This unknown region lies in the south east of Vienna on the Border to Slovania and it belongs technically to the region of Burgendland, but for political reasons it is a sub region of Niederösterreich and has in total 910 ha of vineyards. This beautiful subregion has a long and mysterious history starting in the Roman Empire, and was an army camp which was first time mentioned at the history books in 6 AD. For all history maniacs here is a very good link for more information http://www.carnuntum.at/park-en?set_language=en . There also was a time that this region was bigger than Vienna and Berlin, unbelievable but true.
The climate of the region has the Pannonian climate and the vineyards are planted on the hills of the Leitha Mountains, and mostly exposure to the west. This continental-like climate brings hot summers and cold winters with the combination of the moderate influences of the Danube river to the north and the Neusiedlersee to the south, makes a perfect regulator for the growing of red wine varieties. At the same time, since it is a bit cooler than the Neusiedlersee region, one can assume that it can retain acidity better, which is again in favor for the Zweigelt. As much as versatile region is in microclimates as much is the varieties of grapes and soils. Whereas Wachau is famous for the Grüner Veltliner and Rieslings, Neusiedlersee for Blaufränkisch, Carnumtum is famous for both but the key variety is the Zweigelt. This native grape variety is grown since a long time in Austria and is made by Dr. Zweigelt in 1922 in the university of Klosterneuburg and is a cross between Blaufränkisch and St.Laurent and is spread in Austria on about 6395 ha and is the most grown red skinned grape before Blaufränkisch with only approximately 3225 ha, almost half. In the time of 1999 until 2009 the amount of Zweigelt increased 48,9%. Wow, that’s a lot!! However white wines are also made with increasing importance like Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay. When it comes to the soil types it is varied from dense loam, Loess and sandy gravel and gives perfect conditions for the red grapes.
In focus
Name of the Winery: Weingut Markowitsch
Owner: Gerhard Markowitsch
Size: 45Ha
Grapes In order of importance: Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Pinot Noir , Merlot, Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc
Total Production 5 to 600 000 bottles Year
Website: www.markowitsch.at
Important Crus Aubühel, Scheibner, Rosenberg, Kirchthal
Biggest Export Germany
Closures White wine: Screwcap; Red Wines: Natural Kork
Average Yields 45hl/ha
Name of the Winery: Weingut Markowitsch
Owner: Gerhard Markowitsch
Size: 45Ha
Grapes In order of importance: Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch, Pinot Noir , Merlot, Grüner Veltliner, Chardonnay, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc
Total Production 5 to 600 000 bottles Year
Website: www.markowitsch.at
Important Crus Aubühel, Scheibner, Rosenberg, Kirchthal
Biggest Export Germany
Closures White wine: Screwcap; Red Wines: Natural Kork
Average Yields 45hl/ha
The Whites
Sauvignon Blanc 2015 10% Old Barrique barrels
Aromas: Intense, Cat Pee, Juniper Berries,
Flavours:
Acid: medium
Sugar: Dry
Associations: juniper berries, wet grass
Body: medium
Tannins: none
Aftertaste: long
Minerality: Stone
Grüner Veltliner „alte Reben “ 2014 40 to 50-year-old root stocks, Soil: Loess
Aromas: Cellar, Cabbage, stable
Flavours:
Acid: low +
Sugar: Dry
Associations: ripe yellow fruits, Pepper,
Body:
Tannins: none
Aftertaste: long
Minerality: Earthy, Soil
This wine is different on the palate then in the nose, but perhaps time will show
Chardonnay 2014 Schüttenberg, 100% Barrique for 12 months, Loam, gravel soil with chalk sub soil
Aromas: Honey, aromatic +, exotic fruit like mangos, pineapple, tobacco
Flavours
Acid: low +
Sugar: Dry
Associations: Mango, Tutti fruity, honey suckle, Butter
Body: full bodied
Tannins: none
Aftertaste: long +
Minerality: low
Fantastic white wine, such a great complexity, and the oak is so well in build in one can barely taste it, to even increase the complexity even more. Getting 18/20 Points from me
Sauvignon Blanc 2015 10% Old Barrique barrels
Aromas: Intense, Cat Pee, Juniper Berries,
Flavours:
Acid: medium
Sugar: Dry
Associations: juniper berries, wet grass
Body: medium
Tannins: none
Aftertaste: long
Minerality: Stone
Grüner Veltliner „alte Reben “ 2014 40 to 50-year-old root stocks, Soil: Loess
Aromas: Cellar, Cabbage, stable
Flavours:
Acid: low +
Sugar: Dry
Associations: ripe yellow fruits, Pepper,
Body:
Tannins: none
Aftertaste: long
Minerality: Earthy, Soil
This wine is different on the palate then in the nose, but perhaps time will show
Chardonnay 2014 Schüttenberg, 100% Barrique for 12 months, Loam, gravel soil with chalk sub soil
Aromas: Honey, aromatic +, exotic fruit like mangos, pineapple, tobacco
Flavours
Acid: low +
Sugar: Dry
Associations: Mango, Tutti fruity, honey suckle, Butter
Body: full bodied
Tannins: none
Aftertaste: long +
Minerality: low
Fantastic white wine, such a great complexity, and the oak is so well in build in one can barely taste it, to even increase the complexity even more. Getting 18/20 Points from me
The Reds
Zweigelt 2014
Rubin Carnuntum, 100% Old Barrique
Aromas
Oak, sour cherries, herbs, tobacco
Flavours
Acid: medium +
Sugar: Dry
Associations: sour cherries, spices
Body: medium
Tannins: medium
Aftertaste: medium
Minerality: N.A.
This is a straight forward Zweigelt and how it supposed to be.
Redmont 2013, 100% New and Old Barrique for 16 months, 50% Zweigelt, 25%Blaufränkisch, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah
Aromas: Very aromatic, Smoke, Currants, Black berries
Flavours
Acid: low+
Sugar: Dry
Associations: ripe Black berries, ripe cherries,
Body: Full
Tannins: green but full
Aftertaste: long +
Minerality: stone minerals
Perfect wine, with great depth, complexity and flavors. Still to young needs time to saddle the tannins, but it will come and when it’s here it is going to hit hard and beautiful.
Zweigelt 2014
Rubin Carnuntum, 100% Old Barrique
Aromas
Oak, sour cherries, herbs, tobacco
Flavours
Acid: medium +
Sugar: Dry
Associations: sour cherries, spices
Body: medium
Tannins: medium
Aftertaste: medium
Minerality: N.A.
This is a straight forward Zweigelt and how it supposed to be.
Redmont 2013, 100% New and Old Barrique for 16 months, 50% Zweigelt, 25%Blaufränkisch, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Syrah
Aromas: Very aromatic, Smoke, Currants, Black berries
Flavours
Acid: low+
Sugar: Dry
Associations: ripe Black berries, ripe cherries,
Body: Full
Tannins: green but full
Aftertaste: long +
Minerality: stone minerals
Perfect wine, with great depth, complexity and flavors. Still to young needs time to saddle the tannins, but it will come and when it’s here it is going to hit hard and beautiful.
But that wasn’t all, after having already stretched your taste buds to a point of exhausting, we did a vertical tasting of:
Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2011, 2012, 2013
Intensity of aromas
2011 Medium -
2012 Medium
2013 Medium
Aromas
2011 Tabacco, Cherry
2012 Spice, oak, Cherries, flinty
2013 Cherry, herbal, oak, rubber
Acidity
2011 medium++
2012 present
2013 Medium+
Tannins
2011 Well smooth
2012 Ripe, smooth
2013 Green and hash
Alcohol
2011 Medium
2012 Medium +
2013 Medium +
Character
2011 Riper cherries, Spices, hints of vanilla
2012 Riper cherries
2013Unripe, green cherries
Body
2011 Medium -
2012 Medium
2013 Medium
Some of the people from the tasting started, as always, to compare it with Bourgogne wines. I wouldn’t do that; it is a totally different terroir. Obviously some of the components will, with time, develop and round up, especially the acid and tannins and only shows the capacity of aging. They were great red wines and perhaps the one of the best Pinot Noirs from Austria. Fruity, subtle high acidity with long finishes.
Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2011, 2012, 2013
Intensity of aromas
2011 Medium -
2012 Medium
2013 Medium
Aromas
2011 Tabacco, Cherry
2012 Spice, oak, Cherries, flinty
2013 Cherry, herbal, oak, rubber
Acidity
2011 medium++
2012 present
2013 Medium+
Tannins
2011 Well smooth
2012 Ripe, smooth
2013 Green and hash
Alcohol
2011 Medium
2012 Medium +
2013 Medium +
Character
2011 Riper cherries, Spices, hints of vanilla
2012 Riper cherries
2013Unripe, green cherries
Body
2011 Medium -
2012 Medium
2013 Medium
Some of the people from the tasting started, as always, to compare it with Bourgogne wines. I wouldn’t do that; it is a totally different terroir. Obviously some of the components will, with time, develop and round up, especially the acid and tannins and only shows the capacity of aging. They were great red wines and perhaps the one of the best Pinot Noirs from Austria. Fruity, subtle high acidity with long finishes.
Rosenberg
60% Zweigelt, 25% Merlot, 15% Blaufränkisch; 18 months French Barrique
Vintage: 2011, 2012, 2013
Intensity of Aromas
2011 Medium
2012 Medium +
2013 Medium +
Aromas
2011 Parfum, eucalyptus, mint, Olives, Spices
2012 Oak, forest, Currents, Liquorish, raw meat, smoked ham
2013 Blackberries, Cassis, Vanilla
Acidity
2011 Medium -
2012 Medium -
2013 Low
Tannins
2011 Medium ripe
2012 Medium and ripe
2013 Green, hash
Alcohol
2011 Medium
2012 Medium +
2013 High
Character
2011 Black berries, plumbs
2012 Forrest berry jam, Spices
2013 Black berries, Olives herbs
Body
2011 Full Bodied
2012 Full Bodied
2013 Full Bodied
Great full bodied and complex red wines you wouldn’t expect to get from Austria, great art work from a person who knows how to produce red wine. However, the vintage variation is exceptional low and an aging potential of minimum 10 years. Great stuff.
60% Zweigelt, 25% Merlot, 15% Blaufränkisch; 18 months French Barrique
Vintage: 2011, 2012, 2013
Intensity of Aromas
2011 Medium
2012 Medium +
2013 Medium +
Aromas
2011 Parfum, eucalyptus, mint, Olives, Spices
2012 Oak, forest, Currents, Liquorish, raw meat, smoked ham
2013 Blackberries, Cassis, Vanilla
Acidity
2011 Medium -
2012 Medium -
2013 Low
Tannins
2011 Medium ripe
2012 Medium and ripe
2013 Green, hash
Alcohol
2011 Medium
2012 Medium +
2013 High
Character
2011 Black berries, plumbs
2012 Forrest berry jam, Spices
2013 Black berries, Olives herbs
Body
2011 Full Bodied
2012 Full Bodied
2013 Full Bodied
Great full bodied and complex red wines you wouldn’t expect to get from Austria, great art work from a person who knows how to produce red wine. However, the vintage variation is exceptional low and an aging potential of minimum 10 years. Great stuff.
But then it came the big Mama from Markowitsch
M1
80% Merlot, 10% Zweigelt, 10% Blaufränkisch / 100% new French Barrique for 24 months and 1-year Bottle aging. 25 hl/ha
Vintage 2011, 2012
Intensity nose
2011 High
2012 High
Aromas
2011 Plumps, Liquorish, Tobacco
2012 Plumbs, Sweet spice and Tobacco
Acidity
2011 Low +
2012 Low +
Tannins
2011 unripe, well integrated
2012 unripe, well integrated
Alcohol
2011 High
2012 High
Character
2011 Plumps, Black berries, Spices, Complexity++
2012 Olives, Plumbs, Eucalyptus, Complexity++
Body
2011 Full
2012 Full
Baam there it is, the big Mama. Full bodied, viscosity low, micro oxidation, high complex wine but way to young. A great wine like Markowitsch as a person a lot of passion and engagement to his grapes. 20 out of 20 from my point of view. He is so “Picky” with this wine M1, that he doesn’t produce it every year for example 2013 and 2014 does not exist, and from this awesome juice only 3 to 5000 bottles are made each particular vintage depending on the harvest. Still even if 4 and 5 years of age the wines are alive and still young and will develop beautifully.
M1
80% Merlot, 10% Zweigelt, 10% Blaufränkisch / 100% new French Barrique for 24 months and 1-year Bottle aging. 25 hl/ha
Vintage 2011, 2012
Intensity nose
2011 High
2012 High
Aromas
2011 Plumps, Liquorish, Tobacco
2012 Plumbs, Sweet spice and Tobacco
Acidity
2011 Low +
2012 Low +
Tannins
2011 unripe, well integrated
2012 unripe, well integrated
Alcohol
2011 High
2012 High
Character
2011 Plumps, Black berries, Spices, Complexity++
2012 Olives, Plumbs, Eucalyptus, Complexity++
Body
2011 Full
2012 Full
Baam there it is, the big Mama. Full bodied, viscosity low, micro oxidation, high complex wine but way to young. A great wine like Markowitsch as a person a lot of passion and engagement to his grapes. 20 out of 20 from my point of view. He is so “Picky” with this wine M1, that he doesn’t produce it every year for example 2013 and 2014 does not exist, and from this awesome juice only 3 to 5000 bottles are made each particular vintage depending on the harvest. Still even if 4 and 5 years of age the wines are alive and still young and will develop beautifully.
All in all, great wines from a very calm and harmonic person like Gerhard Markowitsch himself, down to earth, realistic and passion behind what he is. He is the evidence that one does not need a famous wine region to make great wines, and that since I am working in the industry.
Special thanks to:
Gerhard Markowitsch, keep up the good work and hope to see you soon
Eugen Lamprecht, good luck with the Certified Sommelier Exam at CMS, Athens
Schloss Fuschl and Team, for the accommodation
Special thanks to:
Gerhard Markowitsch, keep up the good work and hope to see you soon
Eugen Lamprecht, good luck with the Certified Sommelier Exam at CMS, Athens
Schloss Fuschl and Team, for the accommodation